The Guilty Pleasure…Returns!

The Guilty Pleasure…Returns!

Posted on Jul, 01. 2011 by

Categories: Wine

As you know, we recently received our pre-order shipment of Terry Theise selections – a few of which we tasted on Wednesday – and the first bottle I got into myself was one that has been a favorite of ours for awhile, the Geil Scheurebe Kabinett. It was every bit as refreshingly different and new as I remember it. I think of it sort of like a palate reset button…it’s really like nothing else, but still familiar…different without being so far out in left field that you wonder if it’s a lab-grown muscat clone from Turkmenistan. I don’t need to say anything else, really, because Will said all that needs to be said about the 2009—and it all applies to the 2010 just as well. Enjoy! (oh, and if you’re easily offended by not-so-vague sexual innuendo as wine descriptor, I’d suggest skipping to the end…)

I will admit that I am still wonderfully overtaken by the Terry Theise book, Reading Between the Wines. I keep going back to the text for the poetry of wine writing that is so powerfully sentenced by Theise and the intensely sublime Philosophy that he draws from the Oenological realm.

He has a way of mixing the archaic with the divine that captures the dualistic nature of wine, regaling it as high art and yet profoundly defending its need to be gulpabley delicious as its first function. He defends wine hierarchy throwing out the sales pitch mentality of, “If you like it then it must be good” -that socialist rhetoric which is weaseled at every new wine drinkers fragile ego to make us feel ‘right’ and keep us involved.

And yet I defend that the presence of a hierarchy of greatness in wine does not automatically connote snobbish elitism. A tremendous figure or shapely strong body is at once recognized by all as a more healthy physical state and no one is confused by the fact that you have to work really hard to obtain this state of physical perfection. Why would grasping the essential truths in an art such as wine be any less strenuous to obtain? And yet we are told by the professionals in the wine trade that our saggy fat bodies are just as valuable as the tight rippling stomachs of the tremendously fit. It seems they want to keep our memberships at their specific gym.

The wine I have for you today is the comfort food of the tremendously fit. Or rather, if between making the extremely moralizing films of the American Ideal, Frank Capra snuck away to watch some Three Stooges clips, this wine would be those clips.

The wine is German and the grape is Scheurebe (Shoy Ray Beh) and no one who has read Theise will be able to duck the need to seek out and try this wine as his descriptions are oddly and perhaps darkly compelling:

Scheurebe is like “… Riesling just after it read the Kama Sutra,”

“Put another way, (Scheurebe) is what Riesling would be if Riesling were a transvestite. If Riesling expresses all that is Noble and Good, (Scheurebe) offers all that is Dirty and Fun. It is Riesling’s evil, horny twin,”

He then goes on to make some sort of ‘Missionary’ vs, ‘Reverse Cowgirl’ comparison that somewhat eludes me. Throughout the book, Scheurebe is described in this… lets call it compelling manner. What could I do but seek out a bottle to try.

I have not put in the work on this wine that Theise has but I could not help but find it deliciously compelling. For me it was like a blend of Gruner Veltliner and Muscat, having the spicy almost spritzy sensation on the palate that Gruner can give, like acupuncture on the tongue to reawaken its life, standing it up to be accompanied by the white spring flowers and honey suckle dew sprightliness of a sort of Muscat like flavor sensation. Odd when in fact Scheurebe has nothing to do with either of these two other grapes.

It is delicious, it is lively and it is a little more serious than simply fun. This will be a great wine to have around through the Spring, a little something different for our palates to muse upon awhile. I highly recommend this wine to every palate type except for the most prejudiced against white wines that contain some natural sweetness to them (a palate type that I don’t understand, often coming from folks who roll their eyes at sweetness in wine while they gulp down a 34 oz Soda and drink New World Red wines that differ from fruit jelly only in their textures and alcohol content). This is a great lunch wine or afternoon sipper (as Michael Davis and I thoroughly proved a week or so ago) and it is the perfect wine for Asian and Eastern foods as well as hearty veal and potato dishes in rich sauces and gravy’s.

Delicious and very well made, enjoy.

2010 Geil. Scheurebe Kabinett. Bechtheimer Heiligkreuz -Rheinhessen (A Terry Theise Selection)
Member Price: [private_member] Grand Cru: $12.46 • Premier Cru: $13.03 [/private_member]
Retail Price: $17.00
Buy Now!

Comments are closed.