Scrumptious Champagne

Scrumptious Champagne

Posted on Dec, 14. 2011 by

Categories: Wine

There are so many French words in the wine world for which there are “no good English equivalents.” Terroir, well there is no good way to explain it in English. Ullage, there is no English word for it but it is the air bubble space in a wine bottle. Cuvasion, the time when wine is fermenting with solid matter maceration etc… Most often these words occur becasue the French like to name things that we just don’t find worthy of a name.

I often desire to describe wines with English words for which there are no French equivalents. Not really knowing how to speak French, this is often a shot in the dark for me. There are a few words that I have to believe have no good French expression: Spaz, wedgie, nuggie, chillaxing, metrosexual etc…

Furthermore there are a few things in the wine world for which there are not yet a name. For instance, that cross over point in a wine where you can just tell it is in the higher class of quality. I have always wanted a name for that so I can say things like, “This wine is clearly beyond the Wilrich level.” Just an idea, Parker can use it if he wants.

Speaking of wines that are way above the Wilrich level, I have another Champagne that has blown my mind. Pierre-Cheval Gatinois produces in the Grand Cru Village of Ay. Looking over his reviews now I see that he sells much of his fruit to Bollinger for their Grande Anee bottling. This fact makes me feel better about my own note on the wine, “Bollinger at a reasonable price.” This is a classic of the Grand Noir style with 90% Pinot fruit going into the bottling.

I compare the wine to Bollinger but there is a much more individual small house style here with the Gatinois, Grand Cru. Brut NV. Like a metrosexual of manly charm and grace the wine is serious, brooding almost but with fine polish. The tiny bubbles spaz in the glass giving a creamy weight as the wine chillaxes on the palate. My notes read, “delicate but forceful” like an over the head wedgie from your older sister with just as long of a finish. A nuggie of intense refinement digging into your senses through a veritable head lock on your tongue.

Let’s see that put into French.

The Wine Advocate and the Spectator both give this wine 91 points:

“The NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition offers lovely inner perfume with a silky minerality that is all about elegance and understatement. The essence and warmth of Pinot from Ay comes through in spades. The NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition is 90% Pinot Noir (mostly Petit Pinot d’Ay) and 10% Chardonnay, mostly 2004 vintage, with a dash of 2005 and 2003. The wine was aged in steel and dosage was 6 grams per liter. NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition is as great a value (in relative terms) as readers will find in Champagne. Disgorged: 3-4 months prior to release, but no specific date indicated. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012.” Grower Champagne – 91 Points Antonio Galloni – The Wine Advocate

Folks are just beginning to come back for the delicious Agrapart Champagne that I sent out a few weeks back. This Champagne is totally different. Gatinois eschews oak use, his dosage is always small, just what is needed. This man is a purest and his style is the elegant style one imagines Kings and Queens would have toasted with in ages past. This is truly an education in the refinement Champagne can approach and I give it my highest recommendations possible.

Scrumpitous Champagne, far above the Wilrich mark.

Gatinois, Grand Cru. Brut NV.
Member Price: [private_member] Grand Cru: $33.00 • Premier Cru: $34.50 [/private_member]
Retail Price: $45.00
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