Location, Location, Location

Posted on Dec, 04. 2013 by

Categories: Wine

Three rivers actually flow through Bordeaux – the smaller Dordogne and Garonne come together like a long, snaking Y to form the much larger Gironde, which defines the famed Left and Right banks, homes of a large number of the world’s most expensive and fabulous wines.

Today we offer you two Bordeaux Blanc – one over-achiever from a lesser known region, one under-priced rising star from a more famed neighborhood:

Interestingly, the land above the convergence and between the two rivers is home to a vast production of largely anonymous producers who label their wines simplyBordeaux.  Entre-Deux-Mers is the appellation’s name — literally “between two seas” — and is home to a vast expanse of rolling hills and vines and beautiful chateau from which families have been producing producing wine for generations.  Chateau de Fontenille is just such a house, producing wine since the 13th century.  New owners in 1989 replanted the vineyards and renovated the cellars — since then, Fontenille has been producing noteworthy wines at eyebrow-raising prices.  Today’s Entre-Deux-Mers Grand Bordeaux Blanc 2012 shows very pure, luscious, white peach and Meyer lemon with enough acidity to keep it honest (and interesting) for just $10+.   This wine is great as an aperitif or served with ‘leaner’ preparations of seafood.

Chateau Fontenille Entre-Deux-Mers Blanc 2012
Member Price: [private_member] Grand Cru: $10.26 • Premier Cru: $10.73[/private_member]
Retail Price: $~14

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Across the Garonne, we have the appellation of Pessac-Leognan – home of Chateau Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Pape Clement, Smith Haut Lafitte, and on and on … — but also home to quite a few houses producing great wines at dramatically lower prices.  Today’s selection:  Chateau Bois-Martin BordeauxBlanc – a wine we regard as one of the top values in white Bordeaux every year.  Clean, cold wet stone was my first impression of the aroma (very promising, and logical considering the gravelly terroir of Pessac-Leognan).  Almost immediately, there is intense lemon-lime citrus, with almost medicinal intensity.  The palate reflects that same tightly-wound mineral and citrus intensity, combined with a little white peach.  Mouth-watering acidity and white-pepper spice through the finish really require the foil of rich seafood to show full-well.  I served it to my bride with seared scallops and sautéed mushrooms on Sunday evening and that worked very well.  I would like to drink this a year from now – outdoors, with plenty of raw oysters and the smell of dried leaves and wood-smoke in the air.

Chateau Bois-Martin Pessac-Leognan Blanc 2011
Member Price: [private_member] Grand Cru: $17.78 • Premier Cru: $18.58[/private_member]
Retail Price: $~25

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