First Burgundy of the Season

First Burgundy of the Season

Posted on Oct, 17. 2011 by

Categories: Wine

There is tradition that says when God banished Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden he gave them a young vine, the last and only item they were able to take from Eden. The Burgundians trace their very clone of Pinot Noir back through an ancient migration that would have originated exactly where we believe Eden to have been.

I just made made that up, but it is basically how I feel about Burgundy.

If you are new to the Guild you may not have heard that Burgundy is my favorite wine. I love the stuff, I revel in it, Burgundy is proof to me that God loves us, it is a glimpse into heaven, a taste from the realm where all things originate, it is perfection.

I am such a geek for Burgundy that I will only drink it in the Fall and Winter when I believe it tastes its absolutely best. I wont write the essay on why I think that here, just trust me on this one.

The Burgundy I have today is a Guild favorite. We have been strong supporters of this Domaine since our origin. In fact the lessor brother to todays wine was once a Defcon wine for us in a much more average vintage. That was the ‘Grands Pretans,’ today I have the 2009 Domaine Xavier Besson. Givry 1er Cru. ‘Petit Pretan.’

This wine is from a much smaller Pretan. No, sorry, again I am joking. I have not looked up the wine makers notes on this wine or checked on a map to see where the different vineyards sit. I only know what I have tasted and I can say without a doubt that this is the finest vintage I have ever tasted of this wine.

Besson’s style has been a favorite for me since the late 90’s. His wines are approachable, huge with flavor, deeply Burgundian and all about ready ripe fruit. I have always used this wine to turn California/Oregon Pinot drinkers on to Burgundy. As much as finding good drinking Burgundy can be a crap shoot, Besson’s wines are on and drinking stunningly almost every time.

If Besson’s wine is a sharply dressed gentleman, the 2009 Petite Pretans is Bond in a tuxedo. There is more of everything here. The Petite Pretan is already a deeper wine than the Grands Pretan, more brooding and dark as the Cote Nuits is to the Beaune. Both wines transcend their Givry home in the Cote Chalonnais, though possessing a brightness of fruit one associates with that area.

There is just so much more here, stones and black cherry, chasm like depth, roundness, length, it is a blustery day of fallen leaves, forest floor, “stone rock, stone, steal, stone, oak leaves horses heels.”

I am often baffled by explanation when I love a wine so perfectly.

My highest recommendations for all palate types and in all cases.

2009 Domaine Xavier Besson. Givry 1er Cru. ‘Petit Pretan.’
Member Price: [private_member] Grand Cru: $22.36 • Premier Cru: $23.38 [/private_member]
Retail Price: $30.50
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